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3 Celts & Company • "THE IRISH TARTANS"

Although not a traditional component of national dress outside Scotland, kilts have become recently popular in the other Celtic nations as a sign of Celtic identity. Kilts and tartans can therefore also be seen in Ireland, Wales, Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Brittany, Galicia in Spain, the Trás-os-Montes region in the North of Portugal, and Normandy, as well as parts of England, particularly the North East.
Though the origins of the Irish kilt continue to be a subject of debate, current evidence suggests that kilts originated in the Scottish Highlands and Isles and were adopted by Irish nationalists at the turn of the 20th century as a symbol of Celtic identity. A garment that has often been mistaken for kilts in early depictions is the Irish lein-croich, a long tunic traditionally made from solid colour cloth, with black, saffron and green being the most widely used colours. Solid coloured kilts were first adopted for use by Irish nationalists and thereafter by Irish regiments serving in the British Army, but they could often be seen in late 19th and early 20th century photos in Ireland especially at political and musical gatherings, as the kilt was re-adopted as a symbol of Gaelic nationalism in Ireland during this period.
Tartan was worn originally in Scotland as a fashionable type of dress. All tartan was, of course, hand woven and each weaver would take it upon him or herself to create unique and attractive designs based on the colors of dyes available. Certain colors may have been more common in certain regions, but there was nothing to prohibit someone with money from importing various dyes. Certain pattern schemes may have been more common in one area than another, but nothing approaching modern clan tartans could be said to have existed.
Imagine talking to a hand weaver of tartan, a craftsman and an artist, and telling that person that you wanted them to weave the same pattern of tartan in the same colors for everyone in the region (regiment, clan, etc.). That pattern was set in stone, could not be varied from and was to be the only pattern woven for that clan. Of course they would never have taken such commands! Tartan was and still is an art form and individual weavers created a wonderful variety of tartan designs.
By the 16th century, when we begin to see the earliest type of kilted garment (the belted plaid), tartan had become characteristic of Highland Dress. Gaelic speaking Highlanders wore tartan of bright and flashy shades to show off wealth and status. They also favoured darker, natural tones that would emulate the shades of the bracken and the heather so that they might wrap themselves in their plaids and be hidden. But the colors chosen had more to do with what dyes were available to them (either locally or that they could afford to import) and personal taste than any clan affiliation.

Irish Tartans: SAFFRON (Irish Brown), IRISH NATIONAL (Tara), ULSTER RED, SAINT PATRICK, IRISH BLACK, TARA DISTRICT

"Kilt". Wikipedia. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilt]. December 2013. web.

Newsome, Matthew. "The Early History of The Kilt". Albanach Archive. [https://albanach.org/early-history-of-the-kilt-e0c5b0101b5]. 2000. web.

The Scottish Register of Tartans (SRT). [https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=4071]. 31 December 2018. web.

keywords[x] tartan, wool, kilts, Irish, Celtic, Gaelic, nationalism

3 Celts & Company • "REGIMENTAL TARTANS"

The first Highland regiment, the Black Watch was originally raised from clans openly loyal to the status quo to police the Highlands, which were deemed to be both rebellious and lawless by the contemporary British establishment. However, due to a pressing need for personnel in North America during the Seven Years' War, William Pitt the elder made the decision to raise new Highland regiments to fight in this imperial war. The war ended victory and among other things, Canada was secured as a part of the British Empire, while the British East India Company's position in India was consolidated and expanded, both at the expense of the French. These Highland regiments were disbanded after the war, but other Highland regiments were later raised and, like the rest of the British Army, saw service in various wars including in the British colonisation of India and the Peninsular War. By the Victorian era the loyalty of the Highlanders was no longer suspect. Moreover perhaps due to Queen Victoria's well-known love for all things Scottish, in particular things pertaining to the Highlands, as well as the celebrated role of Highland regiments in Victorian conflicts such as the Crimean War and the putting down of the Indian Mutiny, the Highland regiments earned a reputation which influenced the mindset of Scottish regiments which are thoroughly Lowland in origin. Among other things, this resulted in the wearing of tartan by Lowland regiments which previously wore uniforms not clearly distinguishable from their Irish, Welsh and English counterparts. Also the world-wide popularity of the Great Highland Bagpipe owes much to the regimental bagpipe band present all over the world due to the stationing of Highland regiments throughout the British Empire and their role in many wars fought by Britain. Many extant Highland regiments that are not in the armed forces of the United Kingdom have formed formal honorary affiliations with Highland regiments therein.

BLACK WATCH ('42nd'): The Royal Highlanders (Black Watch), 9th H.L.I. (Glasgow Highlanders), 1st N.S.W. Scottish Rifles, Black Watch (R.H.C.) of Canada.

CAMPBELL: 1st Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders, Lorne Scots of Canada.

DAVIDSON: 48th Highlanders of Canada.

DOUGLAS: Cameronians (Scottish Rifles).

GORDON: Gordon Highlanders, Cape Town Scottish, Victorian Scottish Reg. Austrailia.

LESLIE: King's Own Scottish Borderers (K.O.S.B.)

MACGREGOR: Essex Scots of Canada.

MACKENZIE: Seaforth Highlanders, Highland Light Infantry (H.L.I.), Seaforth Highlanders of Canada, Highland Light Infantry of Canada, Piton Highlanders.

STEWART (Hunting): The Royal Scots, Canadian Scottish.

STEWART (Royal): Pipers of The Royal Highlanders (Black Watch), The Royal Scots, The Scots Guards, The Cameron Highlanders.

SUTHERLAND (i.e. modified Black Watch Tartan): 2nd Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders, Royal Scots Fusiliers, 5th Battalion Seaforth Highlanders, 91st Battalion Canadian Highlanders, Cape Breton Highlanders, Calgary Highlanders, Royal Scots Fusiliers of Canada.

U.S. ARMY (The North American Colonies): The colours were chosen to represent the uniforms - black for the beret, khaki for the summer uniform, light green for the original sniper and now part of the summer uniform, dark blue for the original dress uniform, olive for the combat uniform and gold for the cavalry.

U.S. NAVY (The North American Colonies): Holy Loch was the site of the United States Navy's Fleet Ballistic Missile (FBM) Refit Site One. It was the home base of Submarine Squadron (SUBRON) 14, part of Submarine Force, U.S. Atlantic Fleet.

LEATHERNECK (The North American Colonies): Designed by the U.S. Marine Corps Historical Foundation. Does not have the sanction of the Corps but is sometimes sold as the 'U.S. Marines.'

"REGIMENTAL TARTANS." Scots Kith and Kin and Illustrated Map Revised Second Edition. Edinburgh, SCOT: Clan House, c.1970. p.86,87. Print.

"Highland Regiments". Wikipedia. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scottish_regiment]. January 2014. web.

The Scottish Register of Tartans (SRT). [http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails.aspx?ref=4182]. January 2014. web.

keywords[x] tartan, wool, kilts, Military, Regimental, clan

3 Celts & Company • "CAMPBELL"

Like their name itself, frequently interpreted as Cam-beul, 'wry-mouth,' this forthrightly ambitious clan claims origin both Celtic and Norman, though the accounts vary. One relates how Malcolm of the clan anciently named O Duibhne or MacDiarmid, went as a widower to Norman France, where he married an heiress of the Beauchamp family and adopted that name. A son Archibald accompanied the Conqueror in 1066, and became founder to several English lines, these ringing changes on the name, as Beauchamp to Beecham, Compobello, Kemble. Hugo de Morville, David I's High Constable and assistant feudaliser, married Beatrix de Campobello and introduced Campbells as vassals on his Ayrshire lands.
The family of Colin Campbell went on to become firm supporters of King Robert the Bruce and benefited from his successes with grants of lands, titles and good marriages. They fought for the Bruce against the English at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314 during the Wars of Scottish Independence. During the 14th century the Clan Campbell rapidly expanded its lands and power. This is partly explained by the loyalty of Sir Neil Campbell (Niall mac Caile), (d.1315), to the cause of Robert I of Scotland (the Bruce) – a loyalty which was rewarded with marriage to Bruce's sister Mary.
The family was closely associated with the Bruces and Stewarts in the time of Cailean Mór and his son Sir Neil Campbell was a staunch ally of King Robert Bruce. Sir Neil was rewarded with extensive lands that had been taken from the forfeited MacDougall, Lords of Lorne and other enemies of the Bruce in Argyll.
Of their main stem, rising to its dukedom of Argyll, we hear of them in possession at Lochow (Loch Awe) after Alexander II's conquest of Argyll. This need not contradict the other tradition of Lochow as O Duibhne territory from long earlier. It would clinch with the Campbell aptitude for backing the winning authority, and with their later royal commission to surpress the refractory MacDonalds of 1614-17 and oust them from Kintyre. The troublesome MacGregors of Perthshire had just previously been treated to a similar policing. And Highland memories run deep. Among many Campbell branches, that of Breadalbane illustrates their other aptitude for successful marriage, being begun by a 14th-century match with the Glenorchy heiress. For other septs, see Campbell of Cawdor, also MacArthur.
In 1725, six Independent Black Watch companies were formed: three from Clan Campbell, one from Clan Fraser, one from Clan Munro and one from Clan Grant. These companies were known by the name Reicudan Dhu, or Black Watch. Taking advantage of the partisan nature and warrior instincts of the highlanders, these men were authorised to wear the kilt and to bear arms, thus it was not difficult to find recruits. The Regiment of the Line was formed officially in 1739 as the 43rd Highland Regiment of Foot under John Lindsay, 20th Earl of Crawford, and first mustered in 1740, at Aberfeldy.

Septs: BALLANTYNE, BANNATYNE, BURNES, BURNESS, BURNS, CONNACHIE, CONOCHIE, DENOON, DENUNE, DONACHIE, DONAGHY, FISHER, HAWES, HAWS, HAWSON, ISAAC, ISAACS, IVERSON, KELLAR, KELLER, KISSACK, KISSOCK, LORNE, LOUDEN, LOWDON, LOWDEN, LOUDON, MACCOLM, MACCOMBE, MACCONACHIE, MACCONCHIE, MACCONNECHY, MACCURE, MACDERMID, MACDERMONT, MACDIARMID, MACDONACHIE, MACELLAR, MACELVIE, MACEUR, MACEVER, MACGIBBON, MACGLASRICH, MACGUBBIN, MACISAAC, MACIVER, MACIVOR, MACKELLAR, MACKELVIE, MACKERLICH, MACKERLIE, MACKESSACK, MACKESSOCK, MACKISSOCK, MACKIVER, MACLAWS, MACLEHOSE, MACLIVER, MACNICHOL, MACNICOL, MACNIVEN, MACNOCAIRD, MACONACHIE, MACORAN, MACPHEDRAN, MACQUACKER, MACTAVISH, MACTHOMAS, MACURE, MACVICAR, OCHILTREE, ORR, PATERSON, PINKERTON, TAWESON, TAWSE, THOMAS, THOMPSON, THOMSON, URE

"CAMPBELL." Scots Kith and Kin and Illustrated Map Revised Second Edition. Edinburgh, SCOT: Clan House, c.1970. p.51,52. Print.

"Clan Campbell." Wikipedia. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clan_Campbell]. 24 December 2013. web.

keywords[x] tartan, wool, kilts, Campbell, Black Watch, clan, septs